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Contact Cement types?
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bluechalice
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Contact Cement types?
«
on:
November 12, 2004, 05:34:40 am »
Hi I read in the archives most people use contact cement...the DAP weldwood contact cement gel....I went to Home Depot and got to the section that they sell the glue...I noticed they had this Dap Non Flammable Contact Cement(with new neoprene rubber formula)...so I got it since it said low odor/fumes and I have a 3 yr old around...so I just wanna be on the safe side...I tried it last night on foam and its seems really hard to glue the pieces together....I tried letting the two pieces get tacky...which they didnt cause I think it takes 30mins to cure...so I just rubber banded the two test pieces together and this morning I checked it was glued together strongly...but my problem is that it wont hold the two pieces of foam together soon enough like I have to almost hold it together overnight!!....lol...anway has anyone tried this version of Contact Cement?....is this good for joining foam or should I get the regular red can Contact cement Gel?
I am mainly making a Godzilla Suit with a puppet head for my 3 yr old son...he's about 3ft tall...so I've got a lot of pieces to glue together since this is going to be a full suit...from head to tail...
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Shawn Sorrell
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Contact Cement types?
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Reply #1 on:
November 12, 2004, 07:21:25 am »
I have never tried the type you mentioned. With contact cement it should bond on contact and in fact the bond is not normally as strong if you put the together before they are dry to the touch. I have used a water base product that is used for laminating veneers to wood and I found it took longer to dry. That may be the case with this product. What I did in that case was cut out my pieces and coated all the edges then went and did something else while I waited for it to dry - get tacky. I don't use the water base on foam since I found that the bond was not as strong so you may want to take that in to consideration. For what you are doing I think that if you do your glueing in a well ventilated area and perhaps make sure your son is not in the room with you that you should be ok. One puppeteer I worked with had a young son that was around quite a bit in the shop and we just made sure he was in another part of the building when we did a lot of glueing. Make sure to give the suite a couple days before you put your son in it since there may be some left over fumes depending on how much glueing you do
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Start by finding one thing in common and slowly "they" well become "we".
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bluechalice
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Thanks
«
Reply #2 on:
November 12, 2004, 12:31:25 pm »
Hey Wildjoker...thanks for replying...I might just have to get that DAP contact cement Gel then...thats the one in the red can rigtht? this one that I have is green....
Hey I noticed you are from Kansas City Missouri? wow I used to live...well actually I went to school in Warrensburg...at CMSU...
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Shawn Sorrell
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Contact Cement types?
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Reply #3 on:
November 12, 2004, 03:28:48 pm »
Your welcome. Yes I belive it is a red can.
Yep that is close to me. I had a student from there contact me about a month or so back wanting some help with a puppet show and I gave him some pointers. They asked what me fee was to come and work on the show but they where a bit short on budget. Actually I think I scared them with my quote.
I never heard back how it went for them so hopefully they got it all worked out.
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Start by finding one thing in common and slowly "they" well become "we".
My Puppets:
http://wildjokerdesign.com/puppetsandsuch/index.html
kidpastor
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glue issues
«
Reply #4 on:
November 13, 2004, 06:26:34 pm »
Hi,
I tried that low oder glue, once. Never again! I'll just freeze to death outside from now on. I had to sit with the hair dryer forever trying to get the pieces to bond. The puppet I used the glue on, came apart. The mouth seperated after I had finished the entire thing. Bummer!
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Andrew
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Contact Cement types?
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Reply #5 on:
November 14, 2004, 09:25:34 am »
I personally use Lepage's all purpose contact cement. It's sold in Home Depots in Canada, but I am not sure if it is available in the U.S. or internationally or not.
I haven't tried the brand you mention, but as a general rule of thumb the more environmentally friendly or non-toxic a glue is less it works on foam.
Weldbond's white glue is non-toxic and works but takes forever to set.
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andy
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Contact Cement types?
«
Reply #6 on:
November 16, 2004, 02:48:06 pm »
The professional shops (like Vee & Henson) use a contact cement called "Barge." I don't think it is commercially available, but it works like a charm. In my personal work, I've found that the contact cement called "Loctite" is almost identical in quality. It sets very quickly, and has an awesome bond. The fumes are also a little lighter than some of the other glues I've tried.
The key with contact cement is that you don't need to use very much. Most people make the mistake of spreading a thick amount on the foam - it results in a nasty seam (especially if you are working with exposed foam) and takes forever to set. Generally, you should evenly apply a very, very thin coat of glue to the foam and then wait a until the glue has just passed the tacky stage - it shouldn't take more than about five minutes. The foam should instantly bond when you gently press the seam together.
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Shawn Sorrell
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Contact Cement types?
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Reply #7 on:
November 16, 2004, 04:40:45 pm »
If you are looking for
Barge
you might try a place that caters to shoe makers. They use it to glue soles on to shoes. It is the best bond you can get and even out last the other contact cements that have been mentioned. In theater with dance companies it is about the only thing you'll see them use since nothing else keeps the shoes intact. I had never tried it on foam since I was not sure if it would break it down or not. Good to know it works. Thanks Andy.
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Start by finding one thing in common and slowly "they" well become "we".
My Puppets:
http://wildjokerdesign.com/puppetsandsuch/index.html
Susan
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dap contact
«
Reply #8 on:
November 18, 2004, 09:06:06 pm »
I use that same glue....
I did the same thing you did probably. Walked into ACE hardware and read the label, thinking GREAT for the kids here, too.
I paint it on with a brush and let the pieces sit for about 30 minutes before putting them together. You're right, you would hav to sit a LONG time to hold it till it dries! Ane heaven help you if you wait TOO long. Have to put glue on it again....
I use two methods of keeping the foam pieces together while they dry, depending on how well it is sticking. I use regular clothes pins in some cases and in others, where only the edge is popping loose, I use aligator clips like you use in the office for paper.
The only draw back is if you put too much glue on, there is a little indention in the foam where the glue can come through. I cover the foam with fleece, and so far, this has not been a huge problem. You don't have to clip all the way across the seam, the glue has stuck well just pinning the edges together so I just catch the edges of the foam in the aligator clips or clothes pins.
The next morning, I take off the clips or clothes pins and the glue is plenty dry and holds very well. I know....I have taken poor Madeline's mouth apart three times now and each time I have to be very careful cause that foam will tear long before the glue comes apart so I've had to actually tear the foam to get it apart.
Hope this helps!
grace.
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Susan
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EEEEEEEK!
«
Reply #9 on:
November 18, 2004, 09:08:12 pm »
Just read the post about the puppet coming apart with this glue. Mine didn't but there ya have it~~ Nothing works best for everybody!!! I know...I tried the spray glue stuff and I swore off it....
grace.
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