First, we start with a model, in this case, a Klean Klay (non-sulfur, non-drying plasticene). This is "Gus", my 102 year old wiseguy racontuer, jazzman, and lady killer.
Second, I lay the model out on a work surface, with Saran Wrapped, moist wet clay supporting the model, so it doesn't distort from it's own weight. I like using a "lazy susan" work surface, so I can move the model and mold work around easily....
3) I HEARDA HARD PILLOWS, BUT THIS IS RIDICULOUS!!
3) I HEARDA HARD PILLOWS, BUT THIS IS RIDICULOUS!!
Third, I stack up 2x4 scraps around the model, to reduce the amount of clay needed to create my clay mold walls, just under the parting line (I find the parting line by looking straight down over the model, and mark the horizons with a permanent marker)
Fourth, using moist white clay, I begin to sculpt a 3" wall around the model, carefully (very carefully!) pressing clay against the model surface, and working with small sculpting tools and dental tools, get the clay to contour into crevices, etc (re
When ready to pour up the latex ( I use good mask latex),align the mold keys, strap mold together, pour about 3/4 full, then carefully rotate the mold to get rid of air pockets, and to coat entire interior of mold, then drain back into bucket. Let set for
Once the mold is open, Rasp off excess flashing and sharp edges around outer mold. Then, you can clean out the clay...alchol and stiff bristled chip brush for plasticene clays, or water and chip brush for WED or white clay. After cleaning out clay...insp
Once the front half of the mold has cured, you can flip the entire project over on your work surface (carefully!!!!), then clean the white clay (again, very carefully) away from the stone mold and model surfaces. Clean up and repair any damage to clay mod