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Contact Cement on Mouthplate Pattern PROBLEM!  (Read 11809 times)
Gabriel G
« on: February 13, 2008, 06:38:34 pm »

I'm having a very hard time with a puppet I'm making. I'm using regular Rubber Cement on the mouthplate to glue the foam to the mouthline, but the glue simply won't adhere the foam and the ducttape to eachother. I'm using Gatorfoam for my mouthplate and it works fine until I get to the joining part. What should I do?

I already tried using more glue and ended up having the foam soaked and stuck to itself, pinching in the cheeks and had to cut and glue a new front face for the puppet.
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2008, 07:08:48 pm »

I am not familiar with "Gatorfoam" (is that a brand name?), but is it a porous material? Contact cement often has trouble adhering to non-porous surfaces.
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2008, 07:22:07 pm »

I think I have an idea what gator foam is and if I'm right it is not a porous material.  This is porobably the cause of your difficulty in working with it.  I'm not sure what kind of adhesive you would have to use to bond it to foam.  Perhaps you would need some kind of epoxy.
StiqPuppet Productions
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2008, 10:39:10 pm »

Are you using rubber cement or contact cement? 

There is a major difference on bonding between both of these glues.  It is more than likely that you need contact cement not rubber cement.

Daryl H
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2008, 08:23:07 am »

My experience has been that duct tape is not contact cement friendly - I make sure that I only use duct tape in areas that I will not need to put contact cement.
Shawn Sorrell
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2008, 12:56:07 pm »

More then likely it is the fact that you are not using Contact Cement as Daryl mentioned.  I have never had any problems with foam to Gatorfoam (also referred to as foam core sometimes although they are a bit different).  Remember that with Contact Cement you need to apply a "thin" coat to each surface and let it try about 10-15 mins till it is tacky. You then press the two pieces together and should get and instant bond.
Gabriel G
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2008, 08:01:45 pm »

@Andrew No actually, GatorFoam is a brand name and its like Foamboard but its plastic instead of paper. Its more durable and sturdy.

@Jon yes you are right! And the Gatorfoam IS bonding to the mouthplate, just not the duct taped part of it.

@Stig I'm using Rubber Cement. And really? I thought they were the same thing, that might be my problem!

@LJ Ah I see, according to the pattern it should work just fine but it isn't D:

@Shwan Thank you and I think that may be my problem, although the foam is adhering perfectly well to the gatorfoam, just not the ducttape in the middle of the Gatorfoam mouthplate.
Nikole H.
« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2008, 09:33:25 pm »

Man, sorry I didn't see this earlier.  I was like...OH NO NOT RUBBER CEMENT when I read that right away.  I knew there had to be a confusion with the name.  Yes, two VERY different adhesives.  In fact, I don't find anything useful with rubber cement.  We are told to use it in our art classes at the university all the time and there are so many nicer glues out there nowadays especially with the scrapbooking industry being so big but old school teachers are not yet aware of them.  Not only that but the smell of rubber cement really puts me off.  I am surprised that they don't tell people to use it outside of the classes.  Everytime I see someone bust out their rubber cement in class, I pull out my fancy scrapbooking adhesives and let them try it.  I used to work in my friend's scrapbooking store and people would think that I was just trying to sell the stuff when in all actuality, I was just trying to get the others to stop using the smelly stuff....HA HA HA.  Contact cement is the most fabulous stuff to use on foam puppets.  I love the stuff but highly toxic so be sure to use it outside....the fumes are WORSE than rubber cement.  You can pick it up at the home repair stores like Lowe's and Home Depot.  You will find it in the paint section.  The most common brand is DapWeld and is in a black and red can.  Don't forget that you can use hot glue as well; however, I never have any luck with it much because I have nerve damage and don't have a steady hand for it.  That is why I like contact cement.  It has a long open time to work with...plus I am a perfectionist so I like to take my time and as everyone knows, you have to be REAL quick when using hot glue.  Like Shawn said, you have to wait 10 to 15 minutes before pressing the contact cement areas together so be sure to read the instructions carefully.  I remember my first time using it.  I was so excited that I skimmed the directions and started using it like regular glue....WRONG.  WHAT A MESS!!!  I almost gave up on the beautiful stuff all because I didn't know how to use it.  It was my husband who came around and read it to me and explained that I had to first brush all sides that were going to be pressed together then let sit for 15 minutes.  When I went back, it was AWESOME.  I couldn't believe how easy it all was.  I'm so glad that I didn't give up on the adhesive.  Also, don't forget to pick up a paint can opener as you will need it to open up your contact cement can.  It looks just like a small paint can.  Also, be sure to shut the can with a mallet or it will dry up quickly.

My two cents.......just trying to help out so you don't make my same mistakes!  Wink

StiqPuppet Productions
« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2008, 09:48:10 pm »

@Stig I'm using Rubber Cement. And really? I thought they were the same thing, that might be my problem!

I guess you solved the problem, glad we could clear that up for you.

Happy gluing!

Daryl H
Gabriel G
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2008, 03:11:08 pm »

Hehe thanks a ton PuppetsandPals!
You guys have been a huge help, I've figured it out and am going to buy somce CONTACT Cement now =D
Thanks again! =D
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2008, 11:22:10 pm »

We use a hair dryer on contact cement. Cuts the waiting time way down (Dave Pannebecker does this too).

I also like the 3M foam spray adhesive. Last but not least, weatherstrip adhesive works great. I get Permatex (the orange, not black) at the Auto supply store.
« Reply #11 on: February 19, 2008, 06:39:15 am »

I like to put my contact cement into a squeeze bottle Undecided That way I don't have to leave a four inch wide can open releasing all its fumes into the air.  And a hair dryer reduces your wait time from 10-15 minutes to 1-2 minutes.  Just be sure to recheck your glue joints as you go along.  the heat from the hair dryer can cause the glue to release.   Smiley No worries though, it will stick right back together.
Billy D. Fuller
« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2008, 11:23:11 am »

I agree with Jon............. I just use a empty household squeeze bottle. To make your hair dryer more fun use this suggestion from David Pannabaker tapes. Add somes eyes and hair. Here is my hair dryer " Harry"

Billy D.
Nikole H.
« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2008, 02:15:37 am »

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!!!!  That is such an awesome tip.  I shall do the same and since my hubby is a huge fan of the three stooges, I shall put curls on my dryer and call him CURLY....nyak nyak nyak!!!

« Reply #14 on: February 20, 2008, 04:08:10 am »

Love the hair dryer Billy
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