Okay, going to throw in my two cents here...I know, everyone is shocked! 

I would suggest a Singer machine if you can find one that is at least 10 years old. I STRONGLY suggest against buying a new singer machine. The company was actually on the verge of bankruptcy a few years ago, so the license was purchased by another company who makes way lower end machines with the Singer name.

I found this out when I bought one...and then promptly returned it because it was awful. I found out what happened after doing some research online. Such a shame!

My Brother machine is about five years old, and is fantastic, but it is also a high end machine.

If you are looking for a specific machine recommendation, and want to go on the lower end, here's what I recommend: Janome Sew Mini 124

You can usually find it online in the US for around $50. The only downfall is that it doesn't have clear measurements on the strike plate, BUT...if you are using the same seam allowance on everything, you can do what I did for the machine I got my niece...

I taped down a Popsicle stick to the base of the machine so that she A)didn't have to guess about where her seam was and B)helped her keep her fabric straight as she was learning to sew to straight lines. I used painter's tape so she can take it on and off as needed.

It's a really great compact machine and NOT a toy. I actually have to buy a couple more of these for teaching class with.

So, anyway...that's my opinion.

There's a thread somewhere regarding machines. Old machines do best. New ones have too much plastic, especially gears.

Lola,
Love your popsicle stick idea! Perfect for beginners. Even with machines with clear seam allowance markings I often use a piece of tape on big projects to mark what I am using as a seam allowance.

I love my patterns from project puppet. They are easy to use and great bases for customization.

So I'm guessing if you have a big foam head that needs to fit into a 'skin' with a small neck you leave the back open, slot in the foam and then hand stich the back is that right?

Most patterns attach the neck tube after the head is done, foam and skin both. Puppet Plant book suggested that you could leave the back of head open to have more room to fix the mouth asssembly.  I liked that idea because the  mouth assembly is so important to get right, but it does mean you will have to sew by hand more. The back of the head is often covered by hair so that seam does not show. The neck fabric is often strechy enough that you can squeeze the head inside of the inside out closed neck tube to sew that seam to attach the neck and head fabric easily.

Another way is to slide the foam in through the open mouth, then hot glueing it to the mouthplate...

Yes that is how you would do it creatureworks.  Also remember that though that foam compacts down. You can often fit a pretty large piece through a smaller opening. With a puppet head your restriction is often the mouth plate itself since many make them out of materials that are a bit more rigid.

Cheers guys so helpful...Will post pic of first puppet when finished.

If you are using the project puppet patterns, you can easily just slide the foam portion in through the mouth hole.  That is what I have been doing.