Hi P&Sians! Sorry I've been MIA - kinda lost my creative mojo for a while there    but the puppets are coming thick and fast now. Hope you're all feeling inspired and creative too!

I was wondering whether someone could point me towards a very basic design to create a mouth mechanism or basic cable control? I've had a look through the forums and there is certainly countless information out there, but it's all a bit too advanced for me. I have never actually seen a cable/lever controlled puppet so I have no idea where to start. This website is brilliant http://www.puppetsandprops.com/TheFredProject.html but again, waaay to complicated for me. The diagrams I have seen along the way don't actually state what the materials are. Can anyone point a prodigal puppet builder in the right direction?

Thanks!

Hi P&Sians! Sorry I've been MIA - kinda lost my creative mojo for a while there    but the puppets are coming thick and fast now. Hope you're all feeling inspired and creative too!

I was wondering whether someone could point me towards a very basic design to create a mouth mechanism or basic cable control? I've had a look through the forums and there is certainly countless information out there, but it's all a bit too advanced for me. I have never actually seen a cable/lever controlled puppet so I have no idea where to start. This website is brilliant http://www.puppetsandprops.com/TheFredProject.html but again, waaay to complicated for me. The diagrams I have seen along the way don't actually state what the materials are. Can anyone point a prodigal puppet builder in the right direction?

Thanks!

The Fred Project uses kits and part pieces for ventriloquist dummies (bought at Puppets and Props). There actually is a materials and tools list if you use the links on the left hand side of the page.

Having said that, this diagram of a rod puppet might help:
http://www.puppetbuilder.com/info/rod.pdf
There are more diagrams here:
http://www.puppetbuilder.com/info/

I actually have made a *very* basic cable control for a mouth on a puppet. The idea is to have the lower jaw hinged (open as default), with a fishing line attached to the bottom of the lower jaw (at the teeth end). The fishing line runs down and attaches to your rod. Pulling the fishing line closes the puppet's mouth - this makes sense because the tension of the line tilts the back of the jaw, thereby bringing the front of the jaw up to a closed position. The back of the lower jaw can be attached to the puppet with an elastic so there's no need to find some way to return to default position.

See http://www.flickr.com/photos/66356835@N00/sets/72157622165793220/ for images. (This was for uni, so it's a pretty crappy puppet. The mech works well though) You can't really tell from the pics, but the lower jaw slots into the body of the puppet.
Also - welcome back!

Good resources Na!  Hadn't seen the fish you did for uni. Nice basic design and solid.

I think that is really the secret here. Keep things simple. If you are using a spring or elastic to return something to default always make sure you have a way to get in and replace it. Both can wear out over time.

You might want to think about looking for some of those grabber tools or toys. They come in a variety of "flavors".  Google Search: Grabber Tools Click over to the image output of the Google search. You'll see a multitude of examples.  Add Toys to the search string then and see what comes up. If you are like me it is easier for me to understand concepts if I have something I can hold and take a apart. I've dismantled a variety of things like this and it kind of helps.

Good resources Na!  Hadn't seen the fish you did for uni. Nice basic design and solid.

Can't take the credit for the fish design. My fellow student and friend came up with it. (A pro puppeteer before doing the course)

I think that is really the secret here. Keep things simple. If you are using a spring or elastic to return something to default always make sure you have a way to get in and replace it. Both can wear out over time.

Yep, the reason the jaw detaches is so that you can get access to the mechanism for repairs. Though I will add that the jaw didn't fit back into the body very well, so a good snug fit is useful for having a mouth that doesn't look crooked when it talks.

You might want to think about looking for some of those grabber tools or toys. They come in a variety of "flavors".  Google Search: Grabber Tools Click over to the image output of the Google search. You'll see a multitude of examples.  Add Toys to the search string then and see what comes up. If you are like me it is easier for me to understand concepts if I have something I can hold and take a apart. I've dismantled a variety of things like this and it kind of helps.

I used to have one of these from a local aquarium. Same exact mechanism as my fish above. Just done better

This tutorial has many posts, but it was the easiest step-by-step I found and I was actually successful using it! 

http://swazzle.com/blogs/labels/Lady%20Fromage.html

The 20's-30's seem to have the actual mechanic steps.

As always thank you for some brilliant tips and the warm welcome back! The Lady Fromage and the diagram you posted Na are probably the simplest for me to understand so many thanks. It looks so easy in those visuals! Shawn, I'm very much like you - I learn by doing and visuals just don't often cut it.

And the fish is awesome!

You're welcome! I think the trick with cable control is to keep it as simple as possible. The more complicated the mechanism, the more likely it will jam up on you or be difficult to repair.

As for the fish... it's quite possibly the crappiest puppet ever made
But I have a soft spot for it since it was made at uni, in collaboration with my friends, for a scene that was my idea

Thanks for the link to the multirod multipuppet control, this is just what I need for a group of small puppets that we could not use unless we had enough hands present.  With this I could do the whole group myself, can't wait to make this. 

Lizzie I have been missing you, glad you are back.  Sometimes good things come from taking a break and getting a new perspective.

You're welcome Snail!

Another link for you:
http://hobeyford.com/files/workkshopfile.pdf

I had thought I'd seen something on Hobey's site, but wasn't entirely sure where it was. Unfortunately, these are pretty much class notes, which means while there is an 'explanation' at the beginning of the file, the rest are photos of the whiteboards - in other words, fairly useless unless you were sitting in on the class. *Fortunately* I happened to be one of those people
Also, it has some diagrams which show some good cable control mechs.