Hey Wyoh:

It sure is inconvenient to have to work on on the coffee table in the living room.  I've done that my self.  The worst part is vacumming up small scarps of foam!

Daryl:

Yes, thin flexible seams are important.  I've found this is a matter of technique with CP Ultimate.  One advantage of it's viscosity is that it doesn't flow enough to really penetrate deeply into foam.  My first experiments with foam construction back in the '70 used super glue (cyano acrylate adhesive) and it was so thin that it could soak into the foam if application was done too fast.  The CP Ultimate has to be applied so that the layer is thin on the foam surface.  It dries in a thin film unless clumps are not brushed out.  Again, the only real disadvantage with Ultimate is the longer drying time (since the water vehicle evaporates slower than any organic solvent), but the trade off is worth it to me since I don't have to wear a charcoal filter mask and work in a shop with a ventilation system (which I don't have).  CP Ultimate makes a thin, flexible, strong contact joint in foam.

Don't get me wrong, I've used all manner of adhesives (Tite Bond, Barge, hot glue, PVA, ARG, CAA, polyester resin, silicone etc) and am willing to experiment, but one important criteria I apply when deciding which adhesive to use is the material safety.  If an adhesive, or any material, which doesn't necessitate the use of protective gear and heavy duty ventilation is available and will get the job done I'll pick it every time.

Marty

Lots of good advice here as usual!
Maybe you'd like to look at my making of pics for a bit more inspiration? I love paperclay and polymorph 

http://puppetbuilding.com/marionettes/making-anatomical-marionettes.html

The joints are made with both quite thick elastic and linen thread (just incase the elastic broke!) so she has a bit of bounce in her limbs but also the polymorph only lets the limbs rotate in the plane they should rather than twirling all over. I'd say she's probably a bit too heavy though.

Wyoh

Oh and I made her completely on my sofa. In the warm. In front of an open log fire. And yes I made a HUGE mess! heheheheh

Thanks Wyoh. I'll have a proper look when I get the chance. I'm not sure whether I'll find any polymer clay that's reasonably priced here. Super Scupley is $AUD 40 (hey Aussie dollar is strong. It's about the same price in $US).

I'm in the middle of finishing off my first pattern for my site, after which I'll come back to the marionette question.

I'm also going to have to get hunting for some contact cement; not sure whether anything good will be available either. A local puppet maker told me to use liquid nails, but to be honest, I don't like the idea of it. I've used liquid nails before - granted, not on foam - but I've also used contact cement and I think I prefer that to liquid nails.  Has anyone else used LN before, and would they recommend it on foam?

Liquid nails? Heck no, be easy on yourself and stick to the contact adhesive, it does the job quite nicely.

That's what I thought... It seemed so strange to me, because the guy I was talking to is quite a pro puppet maker, and I've never even heard of anyone using liquid nails on foam puppets before. I did mention contact cement to him, and he sort of tutted and brushed the idea off.

Oh well, each to their own.

Hey Na:

Liquid nails would be a definite mistake on foam, that is assuming you mean poly foam rubber.  It dries pretty stiff and brittle.

Go with contact adhesive.  Most of the makers on this forum use
TiteBond by Weldwood.  It's a brand here in the U.S.  I don't know about availability in Australia, but it it's main use is for laminating cabinet tops.  Barge cement will also work and there are others.  My preference is Crafters Pick Ultimate since it is water based and uses no organic solvents.  I get it at craft stores, but it can be found on their web site, crafterspick.com.

Marty

Thanks Marty. I've heard of Titebond but haven't really seen it around. I haven't heard of Crafter's Pick, but that sounds good. I think I'll be doing a lot of materials hunting over the next few weeks! (Mmm, excuses to drool over tools and other fun stuff         )

... Oh, on second look, I may have seen Crafter's Pick in my local craft store, off where they keep all the mosaic stuff. Hmm... definite investigation needed.

Hey Na:

I work at Hobby Lobby, a craft supply here in the U.S. and we carry most of the Crafters Pick line.  We keep it near the mosaic stuff in crafts, duh!  The company make a bunch of different glues and adhesives.  You're looking for the one called Ultimate.

You'll find it is very viscous and has to be brushed out very thin so that it doesn't make a bulky seam.  It also takes a long time to dry (2-4 hours in my experience), but the trade off on not having to wear a charcoal filter mask or working in an area with a ventilation system is worth it.  I try to glue up multiple parts or projects so they can all be drying together.  Just like all contact adhesives the bond is permanent, so make sure your seam alignment is correct before the two surfaces touch.

Later,

Marty

I am not sure if they make it in Australia but in Canada we can purchase a "green Contact Cement."  It is safe to use with no mask it has no smell and it works just like contact cement except it takes a little longer to get "tacky" however I speed it up by using a hair dryer.  I love it!!!!  I heard that no one has been able to find it in the USA even though it might be found at a place that does cabinet work or counter tops or provides supplies to such companies.  He check it out in Australia, you never know.

Good luck on your search.......

Daryl H 

I just wanted to add a note about using lead weights.  I think they work well if you are only going to use them for yourself.  If you plan on offering any of your creations up for sale, please think about using another weight.  As a mom, I would hate to find out that a toy was using lead.  I know that not all puppetry is geared for children but you don't always know the intentions of your buyers.  I use bb pellets that I picked up in the sporting section of my Walmart.  They are the ammo for bb guns of course.  They work very well.  They are tiny enough to fit in the smallest places and each tiny bb holds a good amount of weight.  It was very surprising to me to discover.  I like to work with cloth marionettes so this is great for filling along side some polyfill.  I don't offer my marionettes up for sale either but if I did, I would also note to the parent that the marionettes were filled with tiny pellets and not suitable for young children.  It's always better to be safe than sorry.  Again, if you are not going to sell them and are just making them for personal use, then by all means use the fishing weights.  They are very easy to use.  The packages do contain a warning that it is a product of lead.

Just my two cents whatever it is worth! 

Aloha,
Nikole

Thanks Wyoh. I'll have a proper look when I get the chance. I'm not sure whether I'll find any polymer clay that's reasonably priced here. Super Scupley is $AUD 40 (hey Aussie dollar is strong. It's about the same price in $US).

Just to let you know, I am selling off all of my polymer clay in my puppet shop.  I don't care to use it anymore.  Just thought I would throw that out there for you!

www.puppetsandpals.etsy.com

Nikole